Roof Line Preparation

• Remove all existing fascia's, bargeboards and soffits to eliminate the risk of retaining moisture rotting the timber support.
• Replace rotting timber rafter feet with treated softwood
• Check sarking felt to first batten (or at least 300mm) and replace if damaged
• Fix the Roofline trims firmly at each board end. Fix at the appropriate centres (not exceeding 600mm) to the rafter feet, noggins and gable ladders.

Allow 5mm clearance at each board end for expansion. Standard fixings are 2 x 50mm plastic headed stainless steel nails

Soffit Construction

• Never use the fascia to support roof tiles. Fit a tilting fillet proud of the fascia top edge to allow the roof covering to clear the fascia
• Fascia should not protrude more than 50mm below rafter feet unless additional timber support is provided
• Gutter Brackets should be fixed with stainless steel crews through the fascia into the rafter feet
• Secure the long edge of the soffit board, cladding or rigid ventilator into the groove in the rear of the fascia or place on the extended lip of the cover board.

• Allow an extra 10mm on the width for the board to fit where appropriate securely into the groove. Boards should always be supported along their length and secured to timber eaves hangers or noggins with 2 x 30mm plastic headed nails at 600mm centres
• Ventilation must comply with building regulations. BCE roofline ventilation complies with all regulations and also with NHBC recommendations, providing an unobstructed airway equivalent to a continuous 10mm air gap for pitched roofs and 25mm for flat roofs. this allows cross ventilation and prevents excessive condensation accumulating in the roof void.
• Roofs can be ventilated by pre-punched soffits or cladding, rigid soffit vent strips or disc vents.
• Make joints in cover and standard boards at rafter feet. the joint should be fixed to the end of the first board which should be secured to the timber rafter. the subsequent board is connected and secured by adhesive or nails.

• Bargeboard ridge joints should be made using an appropriate ridge joint with boards cut to the required angle, Silicone adhesive should be used to secure internal corners over fascia ends
• Double width board appropriately shaped and angled should be used to construct eaves box ends. Boards should be fixed to the rafter timber and push-fit moulding fixed with adhesive to the end of the board.
• Cut all joints vertically to eliminate the possibility of water ingress. Joints behind the moulding should be cut 5mm short to allow for expansion and exposed ends should be covered with a capping strip.
• Protective film, removed on installation, and offcuts from fittings should be disposed of with concern for the environment.